Greetings once again from Hohoe, a place from which I was absent again for a couple days this weekend. Our group of 11 decided to make the relatively long drive to Cape Coast this weekend and stay at a resort called Coconut Grove. Despite the van being air conditioned, the ride was as intolerable as always--an 8 hour drive, about 2 of which were spent in congestion surrounding the capital city of Accra. We did make a pit stop at the mall there for dinner, which was a welcomed dose of Western culture in the midst of Africa. I ordered a chesseburger and got a fried chicken patty with cheese--apparently a beef burger was too much of a stretch towards American. I didn't mind though, I've only been here 2 weeks and would feel ridiculous for not being able to go longer without a burger, so beyond my control the streak of non-American food continues. We arrived at the resort around 5 or 6 and had a bite to eat there and a quick walk on the beach. The beaches were beautiful: lined with palm trees and untouched by human hands, but there were huge rocks just into the shore, making swimming impossible. Anyway, we woke up Saturday morning and drove to a natural reserve nearby for a canopy walk, one of the few in the world (according to the guide). We walked on suspended wooden and rope bridges between giant trees which jutted out of the roof of the rain forest below. I think he said at the highest point it is 60 meters above the ground, but I can't remember for sure. I do know that he said it used to be higher but too many people said it was too high so they lowered it. In my experience, think it's high enough as is.
Later that day I watched Ghana play Australia in the world cup back at the hotel. Much to everyone's dismay Australia struck first, but when Ghana tied the game the celebration was almost like Wake beating Duke in basketball, except far fewer people. But they were that excited. And it wasn't even the end of the game. They ended up in a draw in the end--I can't imagine what I would have seen had they won.
We woke up the next morning and drove to Cape Coast Castle. It was originally a tiny fort built by the Swedes in the 16th century (I think), but after it was captured by England it was gradually transformed into a vast, imposing castle. Its most infamous, and tragic use was for trading and holding slaves before they were loaded into ships like cargo and sent to the New World. I stood in the dungeons where thousands of Africans perished from starvation and sickness before even seeing the decks of the ships. I walked through the wooden gate dubbed "the door of no return" where slaves exited the castle--and their motherland of Africa--to be sent to America, never to return. A placard is posted above the door on the exterior side that reads "the door of return", symbolizing the end of slavery and the freedom for those who wish to return to Africa. Needless to say, it was all really powerful stuff. My only complaint is that the tour was too long--I think it just become too much to take in all at once.
It's hard to believe that I'm already in my 3rd week here. This weekend, some of the volunteers I arrived with are leaving. When I signed up for this trip I thought 3 weeks seemed like a long time, and 6 like a lifetime. But now I think even 6 weeks will fly by. I'm glad to be staying that long. Of course it will be great to see everyone when I get back. Hope you're all doing well!
Monday, June 21, 2010
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